Review: Reif & James

Always on the trail of a good steak, we (mum, dad, bro and yours truly) discovered Reif & James today. Actually, it was the outcome of a series of coincidences. We were actually on a different trail, following Chubby Hubby's review of Sage, The Restaurant, at Robertson Walk. But Sage is only opened for dinner. So we walked around and finally decided on Yoyogi Japanese Restaurant, because bro had been wanting to try that for some time. Bro stepped in to get us a table, and I lingered on outside to peruse the next door restaurant's menu with dad. We were just about to join bro, when a man suddenly burst out of said next door restaurant and called after dad. Lo and behold, turns out that he used to work at one of dad's favourite steak joints and has just left with former head chef to set up shop on his own.

So, to cut a long story short, we end up at Reif & James.

It's a pretty simple brunch menu on weekends. Eggs Benedict, crab pasta, steak sandwich, Reif hamburger, mee siam, lontong, nasi lemak etc. Apparently fusion of sorts. Dad enquired after the steak (which is not on their lunch menu). No problem. We ended up with three steaks, all medium, all served with a mash and a chinese mushroom/vegetable stir-fry (the fusion element). I had the crab pasta, and some of mum's steak.

Crab pasta - definitely fusion. The pasta was done to al dente perfection. Smells like maggi mee, bro and I said in unison when it arrived. Unusually, the pasta was served with a rich crab-infused stock, rather than a sauce, giving it an Asian feel immediately. It was scattered with parsley, chilli padi and pine nuts - again, quite fusion. Nothing to fault here, but I still prefer my pasta with a sauce. Not very experimental in that department, I'm afraid. But saying that, pine nuts, with their bursts of sweetness, certainly jazz up any good ol' stir-fry - am going to experiment with that combination the next time I cook.

Steak - definitely the highlight. Medium rare, done to perfection. Reif & James use Kobe beef imported from a Japanese family in Australia - only one of five restaurants in Singapore that carry it. With all the hype about Wagyu beef nowadays, it is worth pointing out that Kobe beef is Wagyu beef. "Wagyu" is a generic term for a type of Japanese cattle originating from Kobe. There are four types of Wagyu cattle, one from which Kobe beef is derived. Wagyu beef is reknowned for its tenderness, juiciness, flavour and marbled texture - enhanced apparently by massaging the cow and feeding it a special diet. Needless to say, the steak today was all of the above.

Reif & James use the rib-eye cut, served finely chargrilled and plain (the purist way). We enquired what sort of grill they use. Electric? Wood? Charcoal? It's a charcoal grill, we were informed. That's pretty impressive, given that so many new restaurants nowadays have capitulated to the convenience of electric grills, which somehow just. don't. taste. the. same. Pim has a more professional opinion on grills here - as she puts it, "The ultimate quality of a great cook... is hardly in the chemistry or intricate sauces. It is in the ability to master the fire."

I just know what I like - a good chunk of medium rare steak, grilled just the right amount on the outside to give it a smoky (but not burnt) overtone, and great company to eat it with.

Will be back to try the Eggs Benedict (another obsession). Desserts are ok - we had coconut pannacotta with caramelised pineapple, and chocolate fondant (need you ask?). It goes without saying, the steak is highly recommended.

Reif & James
80 Mohammed Sultan Road
#01-03 The Pier
Singapore 239103
tel: +65 6238 8817